Where Malibu meets San Diego Bay

The two-level waterfront structure in Seaport Village that was home to Harbor House for 40 years has turned into a brand new restaurant that points to a specific Southern California food culture.

Enter Malibu Farm. It’s where meals uphold farm-to-table standards and the breezy atmosphere beckons to Malibu, sans any sightings of famous Hollywood talents or members of the Kardashian clan.

The original and existing Malibu Farm launched in 2013 in its namesake location by Swedish-born Black American chef Helene Henderson. She has since expanded the brand to seven other restaurants; five of them in California and the others in Hawaii, New York and Tokyo.

Here, you ascend to the second level to dine amid big windows plus light-wood tables and benches made by local woodworker Paul Bosworth. The ground floor is for private events but with an area being prepared for a coffee shop that will also sell fresh juices and ice cream. No matter where you are in the building, you pretty much have a view of the bay and boardwalk.

Henderson’s culinary concept is nothing new. It skips back through the locavore movement of the early 2000s and further to the birth of “California cuisine,” which was introduced by Alice Waters in Berkeley during the early 1970s.

I had preconceptions the food would be boring before meeting a friend at the restaurant for lunch. While some of it is a little hyped in terms of price, most of what we tried was well-flavored and filling.

A round of non-alcoholic beverages served in glass jars kicked things off: Sparkling ginger lemonade for my friend, and fresh watermelon juice for me. Both were divinely refreshing. Although had it been later in the day, Malibu’s enticing list of cocktails made with infused spirits and house-made mixers would have lent to a carefree afternoon.

From the menu’s breakfast section, three short stacks of mini Swedish pancakes were adorned with berry compote and whipped cream. They were fine except the pancakes weren’t as thin as expected. Also, a few extra modicums of compote would have been welcomed in the absence of syrup.

Savories that followed from the all-day brunch menu started with a “street corn chicken tortilla” salad. My only complaint was the lack of street corn. The salad contained a sprightly blend of greens and fresh cherry tomatoes, which were accented beautifully by strips of chicken breast, black beans, cotija cheese and kicky Serrano chili dressing. Yet the only presence of street corn was a small two-inch cob of seasoned kernels that served as a brief, tasty garnish.

If you are among those who have thrown in the towel on pizzas made with cauliflower crust, you should give Malibu’s version a try. We were immediately struck by the richness and nuttiness of the crust, which tasted a little like baked cheese—or dense, yeasty bread depending on your taste buds. An avalanche of fresh greens and sweet cherry tomatoes covered the pie, concealing basil pesto and melty mozzarella underneath. It’s clean eating that doesn’t fall asleep on the palate.

In the land of burgers in which we live, the “bu beef burger” is a standout. The modestly sized beef patty is crowned with pepperoncini aioli, Havarti cheese and bacon-onion marmalade, which I requested on the side for fear it would overpower everything. Glad I did.

If I were compiling a list of favorite burgers right now for 2023, this would rank at the top. Served on a brioche bun, the overall flavor was buttery, beefy and zesty—and with perfect textural balance. Served alongside was a rich mash of potatoes and broccoli, an excellent bonus considering that it isn’t listed on the menu.

The Malibu mushroom wrap looks equally promising. It’s a vegan creation of local mushrooms, smoked vegan Gouda, sun-dried tomatoes and the pepperoncini aioli.

Additional menu choices include “impasta” featuring low-carb Palmini noodles with Pomodoro sauce, veggies, and Impossible meatballs. There is also lobster mac and cheese with orecchiette pasta; herb-marinated hanger steak; various tacos and more.

From the latter there is an option to build your own fish tacos at a cost of $42. The steep price is due to the skin-on branzino fish used in their making, not to mention a decent number of ingredients you can toss in.

Malibu Farm will predictably do well in San Diego given its prime bayside location within an evolving Seaport Village, where pedestrian traffic is brisk year-round. And from a culinary standpoint, it appeals to Southern Californians in their never-ending quest to eat healthier while at the same time offering novelty to tourists originating from places where ho-hum meat and potatoes rule the day.

831 W. Harbor Drive, Seaport Village

619-695-2300, malibu-farm.com

Prices: Breakfast, $16 to 22; appetizers and salads, $16 to $29; burgers, sandwiches and tacos, $19 to $42; main dishes, $26 to $48